Flores to Tintal, El Mirador Basin

Sun rays flooded through towering Cohune palms and bathed Lake Peten Itza in a muted apricot glow. Three hours and 62 rutted and muddy km later, Antonio and I arrived at Carmelita, his home village inhabited by 400 or so Itza Maya. Eladio, the muleteer, packed supplies, backpacks and duffels onto the four mules. We…